Speaking in Tongue

We enjoy a quite outstanding breakfast cooked by Mandy before making a very slow departure. It's our shortest day's cycling today. There are so few places to stay up here that there isn't a way to divide up the last two days into equal sections.

It turns out to be at least a temporary blessing (depending on tomorrow's weather), because in no time a cold, sour rain adds to the desolation of the landscape. A fairly easy climb takes us onto a ridge top that overlooks the Kyle of Tongue and we get a spectacular view of the estuary and the small town of Tongue itself.

We see that the local church hall is running a coffee shop so we take shelter there. It turns out to be a great decision, and amazingly, this is the last time of only eight occasions all year that they are holding the coffee shop. The church ladies give us arguably the most sincere welcome we've had yet.  All the tables are basically having one conversation and we get immediately incorporated into it. The story of Adam's MS episode last year gets told,
and the customers and coffee ladies are overwhelming with their compassion, offers of prayer and donations. We leave feeling uplifted and touched by an experience of spirituality in action. And, less we fail to give full credit, having eaten some spectacular home made cakes.

We've been recommended a particular pub for lunch which is over the causeway onto the next headland. We spend ages there, but the rain is still bad when we leave and we're drenched coming only two miles back to the newly renovated hostel where we are staying tonight.

We have plenty of time to dry off and eat more superb home baking, this time by Hannah, who manages this excellent hostel. There's a slightly odd atmosphere. It's the night before the last day's cycling. None of us quite know how to mark the moment properly. How will it feel to finally finish, especially as we already know that John o'Groats is nothing special? At least we will have our own reception party of Martin's partner Fiona and her sister Alison, who put us up in Glasgow.